







The story dates back to 1914, when the panther first appeared on one of Cartier’s creations. It was a ladies’ wristwatch, with a generous round case enclosing a square dial studded with onyx and diamonds, reproducing the creature’s dappled coat. As yet, there was no head, no piercing gaze or lithe body; just the beginnings of a panther motif, which would continue to be developed over the following hundred years and beyond. Also in 1914, Louis Cartier, who was head of the company at the time, commissioned an invitation card from illustrator Georges Barbier, representing a woman in a very Art Deco style with a black panther lying at her feet. He was so taken with this “Panther woman” that he began to use it in advertisements. It was an age hungry for the exotic; the mystery and grace of big cats found favour with high society, and came to embody the image of the femme fatale. Louis Cartier thus used a fashionable symbol to create the Femme Panthère. And it was a woman who brought the beast into the Cartier universe, with a depth of imagination and creativity that went beyond Louis Cartier’s classical inspiration.